Our New Year shellfish made disturbing flips and wriggles on its way to the pot. Homemade sushi, slices of raw fish, scallops, sea urchin and salad completed our meal. There was hardly room for the soba just before midnight. We had symbolic portions. Even so it was hard to think about sleeping. I dozed and woke in time to watch the day dawning. Actual sunrise is not visible from the apartment, but dawn sky is frequently glorious. Today's blue sky sinks into clouds of gold that darken...

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